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Beijing's a bustling vast city combining modern huge
megamalls just blocks away from ancient palaces. During the day,
streets are jammed with more than 10 million bicycles, buses and
choking pollution. The hustle continues into the vibrant night
with street vendors selling you fried squid-on-a-stick on neon-lit
street corners.
Beijing delivers on
expectations: Yes, the stern navy-green clad police march around, - you'll never find
these police at the donut shop! And Yes, billboards trumpet Beijing's Olympics in 2008.
Two things surprise me: 1: Everything's Super Sized in
Beijing: malls, streets, palaces, are all
ridiculously huge. 2: There are a ton of other historic sights
-- a few thousand dynasties of history will do that -- we never hear
about. Beijing has so many gates, halls, and walls, they blur
like the castles, churches, and cafes in Europe!
Here's the sights:
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WALL OF STONE
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GREAT WALL. The wall really is like you see in the photos -
huge, and long snaking from hilltop to hilltop in the countryside. It's quite a hike climbing the hundreds of steps that seem to go
vertically straight up the steep hill sides |
| - like some ancient
Chinese Stairmaster. Historic Fact: Built to protect from
invaders, the Wall stretches 4,500 miles across China.
Fun Fact: It's been said that whoever wants to be a hero must
first climb the wall. Spooky fact: 300,000 slaves
built the wall, and slackers' bodies were entombed into the
wall. Fact You Knew: You can see the Wall from
space, or below (just barely thru the fog!). |

FORBIDDEN CITY. Yes, think scenes from the Last
Emperor or Mulan, with red
walls, big doors, gates and more gates. And it's all completely huge, the size of several
football fields combined, making our White House seem like a summer
cabin. I explore some maze-like passages in the
rear palace grounds and find some random little mini-museums with jade and bronze
artifacts. The Imperial Garden at the north end is a nice place to
take a break and nearby are the concubine's quarters - not too shabby! Then
I head south to...
TIANANMEN SQUARE. This huge grey
plaza is also the size of a football field or two, with a great view
of the Forbidden City gate, Chairman Mao's Memorial Hall, a museum and some
other ridiculously huge impressive buildings I've already forgotten the names
of. Many children are flying bird-shaped kites in
the misty breeze; it's hard to imagine this is the Tiananmen Square
where the tanks rolled into crackdown on the student protests more than a decade ago. I see some Chinese
soldiers marching in formation, and I can't resist breaking my Beijing
Rule #1: Don't Photo the Soldiers. I take some photos,
hoping the police don't decide to arrest me like they did this other tourist
a few months ago (well, the other tourist was taking photos of the
police arresting a guy so I'm tame by comparison).
SUMMER PALACE. The Empress
Dowager took a break from hectic Forbidden City life by retreating up
to her Summer Palace on a lake in the NW outskirts of town. The
Palace complex includes a huge Palace, a garden island, and the
longest painted hallway in the world, each panel on the ceiling of the
hallway depicts a folk story scene.
OLD SUMMER PALACE. The
neighboring Old Summer Palace consists of the ruins of several
European style palaces that were ransacked by the Anglo-French in the
1800's (see, how educational!). There's some controversy in the
local paper over whether to restore the ruins or leave them to remind
locals of the past.
MING TOMB. If the Forbidden City
is proof that the Chinese emperors sure know how to live well, the
Ming Tomb is proof they sure know how to die well. The Ming Tomb is
marked by this huge 12-story archway/gate, and then we take stairs 9
stories down to the hidden tomb, which was just discovered a few
decades ago (that's a few seconds in Chinese time line terms). Turns
out that these Chinese Tomb Raiders found a bunch of treasure buried
with the ol' emperor, which belong in a museum, so that's where they
put them. It's still cool and kinda creepy to wonder around the old
tomb.
SILK MARKET. Think Hong Kong's
Temple Night Market only it's open during the day: tons of crammed little street shops selling
designer label shirts, bags, shoes and trinkets for cheap. Like the other crazy frenzied
tourists, I get caught up arguing for 5 minutes over whether to pay $5
or $6 for a Nike watch which at least looks real (I win at $5!). Time
for dinner next at..
SANLITUN. Located near the
foreign embassies, this street is jam-packed with bars -- the place to be on the weekend. I grab some chicken skewers w peanut
sauce -- and a Sprite, cuz I'm still paranoid at drinking anything
with unboiled water!
BEIJING UNIVERSITY. I'm in
the neighborhood, so I check out Beijing University, known as the
Harvard of the Far East. I quickly walk by a Sunday night
chemistry class (yuk!) to grab dinner at the student cafeteria for
$1. I eat next to a Beijing U. law student who asks me a ton of
questions about our jury system, wondering how OJ's case. I
admit our jury system doesn't necessarily work all the time...
Culture
Service in Beijing is great because
it's cheap to hire extra help at restaurants, malls and hotels.
Everyone's extremely polite, and since I don't speak Mandarin, it's
nice no one laughs at my guestures or Pictionary-style drawings
whenever I have a question! Try acting out the following words I
did: silk market, ATM, no-way,-that's-too-expensive!! Getting
Around. Just walking around is an adventure. All these
bikes, taxis, cars, buses and people jam every intersection, coming
within feet of hitting each other, but miraculously, no one gets hit,
like some choreographed Broadway musical crowd scene. The subway
is efficient and costs only a quarter. The buses and taxis are
incredibly cheap too. I do a lot of walking to see things,
but since the city's so big, that results in sore feet, so I check out
the local... Foot Massage.
Chinese believe the foot is the "second heart" and different
parts of the foot indicate the health of different parts of your
body. For example, massaging a sore left toe can cure stomach
problems. And after walking around the city, I see why healthy
feet are so important - and the ancient Chinese didn't even have the
benefit of Nike's! So I check out a new foot massage salon
out for a 45-minute foot massage. First, you soak your
feet in this hot water with black healing medicines. Then, the
masseuse comes in and massages your feet. I try to resist
bursting out in laughter from her tickling/massaging. Then, she
starts playing the bongos on my calves to quite a snappy beat.
The massage concludes with a 20-minute back rub. Highly
recommended, and my feet feel good as new. Spitting.
When I first get here, I notice guys and girls spit everywhere.
OK, spitting's polite - they're launching throat-loogies. But
after a few days, I figure out why: the street pollution starts
to get to your throat so you have to spit it out. I find myself
joining the spitting club. "News."
I check out the English version of the China Daily newspaper, which
reports on several great things the government is doing to help
improve the economy, increase literacy, sponsor festivals. It's
quite uplifting and a nice change for the news to be so upbeat.
Tho' when the pollution graph shows Beijing's population almost twice
that of China's other cities, and the caption is just "Beijing's
pollution is slightly above average," well, it's a thing that
makes you go hmmm... Overall,
despite the un-smiling people walking around like they're Borg
zombies, Beijing's a vibrant city with cool history. By the time
it cleans up its pollution and traffic problems, it'll be great to return
for the 2008 Olympics. |

Seven bridges in the courtyard of the Forbidden
City. Only the emperor could use the middle bridge, but now all
sorts of tourists crawl all over it.

This gazebo is located at the center of a labyrinth at
the Old Summer Palace. The maze isn't too hard - hint if you go:
take a right early on!

The Forbidden City is surrounded by a huge moat.
The murky dark water alone is definitely enough to scare away any
invaders.

Police on guard at Forbidden City's main Tiananmen
Gate, with Chairman Mao in the background.

A nice little Summer Palace on the lake...

The Dragon Ferry at the Summer Palace

Chillin' with some Empresses I find hanging out at
scenic Jingshan Park. I think the one on the right's upset cause
I commented I saw Queen Amidala wearing her headdress last year.

The night street markets sell all sorts of goodies late
into the night, including squid-on-a-stick, candied crabapple kabobs,
almond jello, and more. I break my Rule #2 of Beijing: Don't Eat
Street Vendor food because I spy this pineapple rice dessert in a
hallowed out pineapple shell that is the best dessert I've had in
Beijing.

Because I knew you wanted to know hot to write
Starbucks in Chinese. Yes,
Starbucks is everywhere in Beijing where a latte will cost you about
$2.50 which is probably a day or a week's worth of wages for the
baristas.

The huge -7-story Sun An megamall is a highlight of the
Wang Fung shopping area.

One of the Forbidden City's many harmonious gates; it's
either the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Middle Harmony or Hall
of Preserving Harmony.
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