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Morocco, Tangier They
say that Tangier is the Tijuana of Morocco: dirty border town, and donīt
forget the Moroccan mafia. But sinceīs itīs only a short boat ride away
from southern Spain, I catch a boat across the Mediterranean to see if itīs as
bad as people say. Overall, Tangier is not THAT bad - like Cairo.
Yeah, there are hustlers all over, but Iīm used to that after Egypt.

Looking out at the Tangier port. Iīm
positive George Lucas got the idea for Jawas from the jalabes the older
Moroccan men wear. There are so many hunched old men wearing brown ones
with pointy hoods, it makes me feel like Iīm in Tatooine. KASBAH.
Kasbah means castle, so no, this isnīt the famous Kasbah, itīs Tangierīs
kasbah. I walk over to the Kasbah but itīs Sunday, and itīs closed and
the areaīs deserted. I start to wish there were a guide to take me
around the kasbah alley maze, and suddenly, this guide Monair appears, saying
"I can give you a tour." Well, itīs a bit sketchy but I say OK
cause I do want a tour. Monair leads me down the narrow streets to show
me the fancy doorway of the menīs and womenīs mosques, and other buildings.
Then he

Moonair gets a kick out of pretending to be
a Moroccan mafia member in the rug store. Heh heh, reeeeeal funny Moonair. brings
me to the inevitable store where I flat out ask him "Whatīs ýour
percentage here, Monair!" He says heīll get something small from
the owner. Yeah, like half. I do buy some cool Moroccan lamps and
teapots that look like they might just contain a genie. ARRIVING
at the PORT. If youīre one of those people who always need to be the
center of attention, go immediately to the Tangier port. As you get off
the boat, about 20 taxi drivers will literally surround you like paparazzi or a
swarm of wasps, offering to take you into town for five times the price it
should be. Granted, Moroccoīs relatively inexpensive, so even the
inflated price is half of what youīd pay in the U.S. But still. Oh,
and watch out for the people asking if you want to exchange money (may be a
diversion), and the pickpockets. I negotiate my cab fare in Arabic with a
driver, using the numbers I learned how to say back in Egypt. I knock a
small but satisfying Euro off the 8 price - wahoo! We start to drive
off, when suddenly, this random guy jumps in the back of the cab.
Fortunately, I had read about these tricks to pick up and drop off a poser
passenger to inflate the cab ride, so I yell "NOT HIM!" at the driver,
who says something back in Arabic in defense. Only when I start to get
out of the cab does the other guy leave, and we take off. I tell ya,
getting a cab is no holiday in Tangier.

Bus buddies on the ride down to Morocco.
Thatīs Ibraham from Morocco, and Luis and Lux from Mallorca, Spain. FOOD.
Kabobs here, but add couscous, usually served under a meat sauce dish, and is
moist. Not dry on the side like we serve it. Thereīs also a tasty
Moroccan soup and a wide variety of pastries. After
a quick walk around the city, nervously watching for hustlers and pickpockets,
I really donīt feel like heading on the 10-hour train ride to Marakkesh or
even the 2-hour train ride to Fez to see the real Morocco. So I save that
for another trip, and instead, catch the FAST boat (only 1.5 hours) to Gibraltar.
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Cool blue door near the kasbah.

Sunday market

Another local door.


Boat buddies: Thatīs me, Charles from
France, visiting Morocco with his parents; Rim, she does web design in
Marrakesh; and Ibraham, visiting his sick mother in Tangier.
Always helps to meet locals, Ibraham and Rim give me the scoop on dos
and donīts in Morocco.

Eight of these pastries costs about a
dollar - told you Morocco was relativley cheap. Thatīd cost me
five bucks in London.
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