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Tokyo
Take 10 Times Squares, complete with neon lights and
bustling crowds, and pack them into a city on subway stops, and you
get Tokyo. By day, Tokyo's subways are filled with manga-reading
business men and uniformed school kids, and by night, cell-phone
slinging teens trying
to look oh-so-American with their dyed blond and brown hair. I crash
at the apartment of my brother's college roommate, Tai, who shows me
the town along with his brother Gen.
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MOUNTAIN
OF FIRE
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MOUNT FUJI
Mt. Fuji's a few hours drive from Tokyo, so I decide to
take the bullet train. And yes, the bullet train
is fast, zipping along at up to 150 mph. After an hour
train ride and two hour bus
ride, we pull up to the Fifth Station rest area. |
| Historic
Fact: The dormant volcano last blew its top in
1708. Top temps drop to 20 below.
Feet fact: Mt. Fuji's 12-thou feet high, or 2.3
miles (just a bit shorter than 2.7 mile high Mt Rainier). Fun
fact: Legend has it that "One who never
climbs Mount Fuji is a fool, and one who climbs twice is twice
the fool." |

The fall yellow
trees provide a striking foreground to Mt. Fuji's serene
flattop.
MEIJI TEMPLE. This temple
was built in a park in the middle of town to honor a Meiji
emperor. It's quite serene, with its huge wooden archways and
wide courtyard.
TOKYO TOWER. This
333-meter communications tower looks like a rip-off of the Eiffel
Tower to me - in fact its brochure brags it's just a few meters taller
than the real Eiffel Tower.
TOKYO DISNEY SEA.
Tokyoites have always packed Tokyo Disneyland, so Disney decided to
build a second companion park next door, Disney Sea, which opened up
just a month before I arrive. Since I'm a big Disney fan (annual
passholder for Disneyland/ California Adventure) I have to check out
this new park. Disney Sea has 7 water-themed lands:
Mediterranean

Harbor (Venice), American
Waterfront, futuristic Port Discovery (with an Aquatopia ride - get
it?), Indiana Jonesy Lost River Delta, Little Mermaid Lagoon kiddie
rides, Aladdin's Arabian Coast (Agrobah), and Atlantis-style
Mysterious Island, all surrounding a huge volcano that spews fireworks
at night. I start to realize why Disney went with a water theme
for this park when it starts to rain in the afternoon. Rainy
Tokyo goes well with the water theme, as if it the rain was part of
the special effects, especially around the scary Mysterious
Island. The rides aren't the greatest - most are souped up
versions of Small World where you just look at animatronic characters
on sets. There's a copy of Indiana Jones, a motion simulator and
no roller coaster. But it is still fun to walk the
well-landscaped park and see the locals go nuts for Mickey.
Neighborhoods
After the few tourist sights,
Tokyo's all about the subway stop neighborhoods. Here's a quick
tour:

Vending machines all over town sell hot and cold
coffee, tea and Coke of course.
HARAJUKU. Teens from the
Tokyo suburbs travel to Harajuku on the weekends to visit the Gap and
other high-fashion stores in this shopping area. One day, we
meet Tai's bro Gen and his girlfriend at Las Chicas, a trendy upscale
bar on a Harajuku sidestreet.

We chill out at Las Chicas near Harajuku.
SHIBUYA. We swing by
Shibuya, another teen shopping area where girls dress up in designer
labels just to walk around and be seen (but of course, not to actually
strike up a conversation).
GINZA. The Ginza shopping
area is the Fifth Avenue or Broadway shopping area with high
international fashion stores. I see a kabuki show at the Kabuki-za
theater in Ginza. Also, my Tokyo guide book directs me to a public
bath in Ginza as a must-do, so I do, thinking it's going to be like a
spa. But it ends up being basically a locker shower room with a
jacuzzi. Except you sit on a little plastic stool to lather up
'n rinse at an ankle-level faucet before going in the water, which of
course, I don't know I should do, until I get glare-stares from
others. Later, Tai tells me that public baths are not common at
all - it's more for poorer Japanese who have small or no showers at
home - and it's definitely not like a spa. So much for trusting
the ol' guide book. Chalk this one up for experience again!
TOKYO STATION. All
subways/rail lines seem to end up at Tokyo Station (like Grand
Central) making it another big shopping destination. And I find
the Pokemon Center there too.
ROPPONGI. This night life
area has lots of restaurants, bars and dance clubs, including Velfarre,
which Gen gets us into for free since the music promotion company he
works for owns it. Hundreds of hip-hop teens are jamming to
trance on the laser lit dance floor - impressive for a Sunday night
too! On another night, we eat the delicacy blowfish at a nearby
restaurant. Yes, this is the fish the chefs need a license to
cook to make sure they don't accidentally serve you the deadly
poisonous parts of the blowfish.

I join Tai and his family for a fancy blowfish dinner
SHINJUKU. Tai's apartment
is a 15-min. walk from the busy Shinjuku area. With its high
rises, megamalls and nightlife, it's most like Times
Square. One night in Shinjuku, we go to a ladies chat club
which can only be described as a Japanese phenomenon. Don't get
excited - it's not much more than lunch at the freshman
cafeteria. Y'see, it's not Japanese custom to talk to people you
haven't been introduced to, which means no random talking to people,
asking for phone numbers etc. So, ladies chat clubs are the
solution: you pay $60 per hour to talk -- and talk only -- to Japanese
girls. We decide to go just for the experience, with some of
Tai's friends who go all the time. As soon as the four of
us walk into the club, we're each assigned a girl who chats with us at
our table. Fortunately, the one assigned to me speaks a few
words of English. I find out she's a college freshman on her
first night on the job. She's trying to pick up some easy money,
and improve her social skills, maybe learn about the world, and she's
having fun. As we leave the "interesting experience,"
I tell Tai the American way of random conversations is much much
cheaper!
ODAIBA. This new
shopping/entertainment mall was build on reclaimed land in the bay,
providing an excellent view of the Tokyo skyline. Gen and I
check out the Joypolis video game center and play a drumming video
game.
Day Trips
| YUGAWARA.
On the way to visit Hakone's hot springs during the weekend,
we stop by Yugawara, a small fishing village with great
seafood. We stop by this local restaurant to have some |

Our sushi chef |
very
fresh sushi: we pick some fish from the koi pond in the
restaurant, and then the chef catches it, slices it, and
serves it to us right there, with the fish still wiggling on
the platter for a few seconds to show us how fresh this
delicacy is (like lobster or King crab in the U.S.).
It's a bit unnerving at first, but man, it sure is tasty. Our
fresh-sushi chef says he's been offered a fancy restaurant job
in LA - he could make massive bucks serving fresh-from-
the-water at a Spagos-like restaurant. We trade numbers. |
HAKONE. Tokyoites
take day trips to Hakone to relax in its natural hot springs.
Thanks to my earlier public bath experience, I'm familiar with the
drill. OTHER HOT
SPRINGS. We also stop by these other hot springs, easy
to spot by the sulfuric steam rising off the mountain side. They
cook eggs in the hot water, turning them black. Overall,
Tokyo is very cool. Clean, efficient and
orderly. Teens and kimono-clad kabuikza goers chatting on
color cell phones as they pass supermodern neon malls and super
ancient sacred shrines. |

Tokyo Tower is a nice visual landmark to help you figure out where
you're going around town

The bullet trains are so fast, they make
Amtrak or Metro North look like the Disneyland Railroad.
Superman would have fun being faster than one of these

I grab breakfast at a local noodle shop. I try
the traditional Japanese breakfast: rice with a raw egg and
sticky beans. I'm smiling during the picture, but yakking
afterwards when I find out the beans are sticky because they are
intentionally partially rotten. Don't ask me how that tradition
got started...

The Meiji temple park is a nice place to take a break
from hectic city bustle.

Memorial funeral doll.

Gen's job at his music company is to promote the
Backstreet Boys, Britney Spears through local radio promotions.
He's promoting the BSB's new greatest hits when I visit his office.

Japanese women wear the traditional kimonos for any
formal dress-up occasion, like a wedding, graduation, or in this case,
the Kabuki-za theater in Ginza.

Shibuya shopping, where you can see teens trying to
look American-hip with Nikes and t-shirts with very cool English
words. I see a girl wearing a T-shirt that says FRAGILE, and
guys wearing sweatshirts that say SISSY and best of all, LOSER.
I try to hold back my laughter, and want to tell these guys what
they're wearing, but that's rude here. Oh well. Makes me think
twice about buying T-shirts with cool Japanese characters here - I
better tell my friend to check his Japanese character tattoo!

Hanging out at the Shibuya Starbucks, one of the
world's highest grossing Starbucks. There's even a waitress to
help us find a table. We meet up with Tai's girlfriend, and
John, on a business trip from Connecticut, who we randomly meet on the
street by spying his A&F hat.

Pokemon Center

Trance dance at Velfarre club.

Now this is fresh fish: just-caught and cut
sushi. Fish still wiggles to prove it.

The famous Kabukiza theater in Ginza. I join Tai's
grandmother to watch the 4.5 hour show - with 3 intermissions
thankfully. It consists of white-faced male actors playing male
and female roles in the Edo-era style of story-telling, featuring
chanting and dancing, but no speaking. It's like going to the
orchestra in the U.S. - you go maybe once a year, if ever.
Even local Japanese use headphone earpieces to translate the old-style
Edo language (like our Olde English).
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